Welcome to Wandering Threads

Machine Stitch Technique

Sampling Basic Machine Stitching

With feed dogs engaged and using
varying lengths for straight stitch
and varying lengths and widths for
zig zag stitch . . . . . . . . .

Using a regular foot, engaged feed
dogs and just by altering stitch and
width lengths, lines of stitch can be
laid down to create interesting
formations. This method allows you
to use gentle curves and straight lines
whilst maintaining a consistent stitch
length and width.

Free Motion Stitching

Using a darning / free motion foot,
and the feed dogs down ( disengaged )

Straight stitch = st length zero
st width zero

Free straight stitch
(Granite stitch)
Worked in a small
circular motion

Altering Tensions

By altering the upper and / or bobbin
tensions a variety of stitching effects can be achieved with both straight stitch and zig-zag stitch.

It is possible to work either in free
motion or standard set up.

Playing with the Top Tension (1)

Standard Set Up

(A) shows lines of straight stitch worked in close parallel rows. The top tension has been tightened, so that the bobbin thread is brought to the
surface and whilst stitching the length has been changed randomly to one of the two selected stitch lengths, in this case .5 and 2.5

(B) shows lines of zig-zag stitch turning through 90 degrees. Again the top tension has been tightened so that the variegated thread in the bobbin is pulled to the surface on both sides of the stitch. In this case the length and width are consistent throughout.

(A) shows free machined straight stitch using a tightened top tension. The resulting stitch is known as Whip Stitch. Stitch length value should be zero, although the speed you feed the work through the machine should be quite slow and the machine's running speed quite fast, it is the individual who determines the success of the effect. Practice ! ! !

(B) shows free zig-zag using a tightened top tension to mix colours. Only three colours were used but the effect of the bobbin thread being brought to the surface creates a blending. In this case one or other of the geometric shapes appears to be translucent. The whole sample was worked in a sideways motion within the given shapes and areas, swapping the three colours between the bobbin and machine thread, as necessary.

By maintaining a tight top tension and loosening the bobbin tension spring it is possible to create some very textural and unusual effects. The best results are gained working in free motion mode.

When using a top thread that is the same colour as the fabric, only the bobbin thread shows as its is brought to the top, to make small, spikey stars pulled towards the centre of the stiched circles. This is generally known as feather stitch.

(1)

(2)

Unlike whip stitch where the machine runs fast and the fabric is fed under the needle slowly, with feather stitch the fabric is moved fairly quickly and in large or small circular motion. See examples (1) and (2) on the right.

By working in one direction, laying down parallel lines of stitck and keeping the curves tight it's possible to replicate designs that could be used for scales or feathers. See examples (3) and (4) on the right.

(3)

(4)

By using thicker threads in the bobbin, altering upper and lower tensions and stitching with the right side of the work facing down on the needle plate, it is possible to create interesting, raised and textured forms of stiching. Generally known as cable stitch or bobbin work.

Apart from using different weights and thicknesses of thread in the bobbin to achieve a variety of results, changing stitch lengths can also affect the outcome.

Stitch length 1 - 5
Some utility stitches

Some automated stitches using increased stitch length

Bobbin work can be done using standard and free machining methods. Some automatic patterns can also be done this way, but always use a stabilizer when not in standard mode.

When viewing the work from the right side the cable stitch appears to be sitting on top of the fabric, rather than being stitched through it ; resembling a fine couched cord.

There are so many elements that will affect the outcome of this technique like; bobbin thread thickness and firmness, stitch length, speed of fabric under the needle when free machining, upper and lower tension changes, so it is essential you experiment.

Notice how the thickness and firmness of the bobbin thread affect the look of the cable stitches. The yellow thread is much softer and is taken down into the fabric, whilst the others stay proud of the surface.